Grimod, Brillat & Nous

Today, November 20th, we celebrate in hushed silence the 267th anniversary of the birth of our spiritual gastronomic father, Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de la Reynière, known as ABL, a.k.a. Grimod, but who, from generation to generation and page to page, has been eclipsed by his successor, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin.

This injustice cannot continue any longer, and we certainly cannot wait until the round figure of three hundred years to bring him back into the spotlight: another thirty-three years and there would be nothing left to save.

Just as it would be absurd to want to celebrate the first Almanach des Gourmands from 1803 with such a delay, even if “222 years” offers a certain symmetry that sets it apart.

In truth, if we are to restore this monument, which has been swallowed up by the immensity of his work, we can only do so by invoking the man who, in his own way, transformed his essays, namely the aforementioned Brillat-Savarin.

This is fortunate, because in early 1826, almost 200 years ago, he had the good idea of publishing a joyful contemplation on the world of good eating, namely The Physiology of Taste, before taking a seat at the great kitchen in the sky and leaving his text to transcend his body with his carnal meditations.

This is the perfect opportunity to remind all true and sincere gourmets on earth to whom they owe this magnificent empire of refined dishes and good food.

However, we are faced with a dilemma! Which of the two should we praise to the skies? How can we recognize the seminal contribution of each? How can we separate the train from the livery, the pomp from the polish? Together, they founded the sciences of the table. How can we give back to these arts what belongs to Cesar and make sense from this salad of intermingled and savory contributions?

This debate, with its passion and ardent defenders, is similar to that between the advocates of oil and those of butter, between the standard-bearers of Gascony foie gras and the flag-bearers of Alsace goose liver.

Although it had been simmering quietly for a long time in kitchens and dining rooms, this deep schism came to light at the Cerisy Gastronomy Symposium in June 2025. Leaning over an authentic copy of Diderot and d'Alembert's Encyclopédie, neither Julia Csergo nor Patrick Rambourg minced words in defending their respective champions, whom they considered to be the true founder of this discipline which, by the way, had not yet found its place in the aforementioned encyclopedia.

To shed light on this burning issue, which is as controversial as a religious dogma whose consequences could plague the world for centuries, we have decided to offer enlightened gourmets and those who are just beginning their gastronomic journey a unique and undoubtedly seminal conference on the subject.

As happy and fervent subscribers to Biztronomy, you are the first to hear about a major conference entitled “Grimod, Brillat, and Us,” which will be held on October 2 and 3, 2026, in the two-thousand-year-old city of Lyon, a timeless haven of gastronomy if ever there was one. This conference will welcome a deliciously select group of specialists in gastronomy, with a particular focus on its spirit and therefore its history.

Through numerous presentations, debates, and round tables, we will attempt to understand the respective influences of Grimod and Brillat on the birth of the SPIRIT of gastronomy. We will attempt to untangle their contributions and understand the influence they had on each other, both during their lifetimes and posthumously. Finally, we will seek to identify what remains of their legacy in contemporary gastronomic practice.

Soon, on Biztronomy, we will launch a web page dedicated to this international event, whose mission is to bring together, by all available and necessary means, all the world's fine gourmets who reflect on their dishes. You will discover our illustrious speakers and the topics covered, and you will be able to pre-register.

While waiting for this unique event, we will try to entice our kind readers with spicy and delicate brain teasers, refreshing evocations that will awaken the cerebral sensuality of any discerning food lover and invite them to join us in less than a year to celebrate these two apostles of good food.

Happy Birthday, Alexandre!